Heading for the Hills
Exploring a secret garden of trails in Texas Hill Country.
By: Darley Newman 09/25/2009
Riding along peaceful West Verde Creek on Comanche Bluff Trail, I could see in my mind’s eye the natives stalking a transplanted settler from Poland or nearby Castroville.
In the 1800s the region near Bandera, Texas, wasn’t as peaceful as it is today. Settlers from Poland and other non-Polish settlers, including a Mormon colony of about 250 people, moved to the region that now includes the Hill Country State Natural Area in the 1850s. Conflict arose between these pioneers and the aggressive Comanche. Prior to that time, the Comanches warred with the Apaches, driving them out of the area. Today, as I breathe in the crisp air and stare at a tall limestone cliff in this beautifully wild Natural Area, I understand why Apaches, Comanches, European settlers and later ranchers would fight for this land.
I was riding with Dianne Tobin of Hill Country Equestrian Lodge, a horse trainer and Bandera native, on her horse Molly, a grey, 12-year-old Appendix Quarter Horse. Dianne invites equestrian guests to stay in cabins located on her 100-year-old ranch property. Once owned by a British family who raised crossbred cattle, sheep and Angora goats, Dianne’s historic ranch harkens back to other area ranches of the time, like the Bar-O-Ranch, the ranch responsible for the existence of the Hill Country State Natural Area today.
The more than 5,300-acre Natural Area was formed when Louise Lindsey Merrick, owner of the Bar-O-Ranch which had been in her family since the 1940s, donated portions of her land over a seven-year period to the state of Texas. Merrick asked that the land be “kept far removed and untouched by modern civilization, where everything is preserved intact, yet put to a useful purpose.” In 1984, the park opened, and it has stayed true to Merrick’s request.
The Bar-O-Ranch itself had gone through several owners before the Merrick family took it over after WWII. The Bar-O-Ranch was diverse, raising sheep, goats, horses and cattle. Its main business was mohair. In the park today, you may still pass the two-story ranch house, which dates to 1892. You may also come across other reminders of the area’s agricultural past: remnants of a molasses press, antique bailers and tractors, hand dug wells and windmills.
“Texas Parks is really trying to capture that post-WWII period to 1970s, when ranching was king in this area,” says Paul David Fuentes, park manager at the Natural Area. “Our job is to protect and preserve that time period, so you really get an opportunity, when you come to the park, to step back in time.”
With more than 50 miles of trails that wind along streams and cliffs, grassy fields and, of course, those Texas hills, the rugged Texas park offers riders a lot to explore. Various equestrian events and competitions are held at the park throughout the year. You’ll find equestrian camping in the park, should you bring your own horse along, but keep in mind that the campsite is primitive. You also have the option of lodging at one of the many area ranches in Bandera, the self-proclaimed “Cowboy Capital of the World.”
Post A Comment