Below the Equator
Gaucho adventures in Uruguay, South America.
By: Darley Newman 08/01/2009
At La Salamora, an estancia that I visited in the rocky, rolling grasslands of Lavalleja, Gilberto Benitez was a nomadic gaucho until being hired by the ranch a few years ago. Prior to moving into a house of his own at La Salamora, Gilberto lived outside, using his saddle as a pillow, and worked for various area ranches when they needed him. Gilberto now lives in his own house on the ranch, with his own TV, which has brought him news of places he didn’t before know existed. Gauchos are still doing real work, but many in Uruguay are doing it a bit more comfortably now.
As I traveled around the country meeting people like Gilberto and Jorge, I was glad to see the Uruguayan estancias are still pure, working ranches with real cowboys. Many ranchers want to hold onto their heritage, even as they move toward the future.
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